Over-the-Counter Ringworm Treatment
Ringworm is not a worm but a common fungal skin infection. Phew! That sounds a lot better, doesn’t it? It is similar to Athlete’s Foot or Jock Itch in humans. Sadly, it can be quite common in guinea pigs, especially in times of stress, illness, or anything that may cause a lowered immune system. Though it can appear anywhere on the body, Ringworm most commonly appears on the skin in and around the mouth, nose, neck, around the eyes, inside and outside of the ears, around the testicles, in the armpits and groin area, and the animal will likely be itchy.
It presents as reddish skin with whitish dry skin patches and flakes. It looks similar to dandruff. The other common skin problem guinea pigs can suffer from is caused by a microscopic parasite, the mange mite. This parasite will also cause the guinea pig to itch and cause thinning hair, but only ringworm presents with dry-looking flaky skin.
If ringworm is left untreated, it can rapidly spread. However, it can be eradicated relatively easily if caught in the early stages, unless the infection is allowed to spread. In that case, the treatment is more involved.
Diagnosis
Veterinarians usually want to perform a skin scraping that gets analysed under a microscope, sent to a lab for testing, or tested with black light. The problem with skin scrapings and blacklight testing to detect ringworm is that, sadly, these tests often come back negative. (Over the years, I have taken in countless guinea pigs from the LA City and County shelters with ringworm that were tested via this method and found to be negative.) This can mean some guinea pigs are sent home without proper treatment, and untold suffering may result. So, if a guinea pig shows signs of a skin problem, I always advise treating it for a fungal infection, even if tests at the vet come back negative. To be safe and cover all bases, when we treat ringworm, we also apply a small drop of Ivermectin to the outside of the ear to treat or prevent mange mites. Both ringworm and mange mites are opportunistic and can be present at the same time. In the UK, you can purchase Beaphar anti-parasite liquid that contains Ivermectin.
Treatment
I have developed a treatment protocol that is animal, people, and wallet-friendly and can be done at home. This treatment, if done correctly, will eradicate an active fungal infection. This treatment requires the following over-the-counter (OTC) items:
Bathing
Medicated baths are the single most important thing to do for an infected guinea pig. Bathe the pig and rub the shampoo all over the body, putting plenty of the shampoo on the affected areas. The shampoo has active ingredients that kill fungal spores.
Be bold. Wash the whole guinea pig, especially the face, and let the shampoo soak in for a few minutes before rinsing. Then, repeat the baths once a week for three weeks.
Cream
At the same time, tackle the infection with the cream by applying it directly to the affected areas. Make sure to rub the cream into the skin and not just put it on the top of the area where it will lay on the hair. The infection is on the skin, so ensure that the cream is applied thoroughly.
Do this twice a day for two weeks. Hair often falls out, revealing bald patches. Don't worry; this means the treatment is working. Most often, the hair will start to grow back by the 5th day. Despite new hair growth, keep applying the cream for two weeks as recommended.
The first bath is the most important part of the treatment and should not be delayed. Use the following bath schedule:
Day 1: bath
Day 4: bath
Day 7: bath
Day 14: bath
Day 21: bath
Severe Cases
In severe cases of ringworm, the body may be covered with a grey/beige crumbly crust that can be up to a half-inch thick. Lesions will also be present from the animal scratching itself.
Seizures can strain the heart, and in some cases, can lead to cardiac arrest. They are exacerbated by handling and scratching. Seizures are heart-breaking and very scary to watch. Prepare a bath for soaking and put plenty of the medicated shampoo in the water. Have the guinea pig soak in this for at least 15 minutes before attempting to remove the crusts. A soft toothbrush works wonders and can be more beneficial than just using your fingers. Try to get as much crust off in that first bath. As long as that crust is still present, the medicated cream will not be able to reach the skin, so this is quite important. You will likely only be able to remove some of the crust in the first bath, so multiple baths are needed.
Scratching
You want to wrap the guinea pig to prevent scratch lesions and scratching-induced seizures.
You will need a soft cotton wrap, the kind that is used to pad the area underneath a cast, and Vet Wrap. Vet wrap is a stretchy tape that will stick to itself (available online in various colors). If open sores are present, you will need to use non-stick pads to cover those areas first and cover the trunk of the body with the cotton wrap, then secure it with the Vet Wrap tape. Make sure it is not applied too tightly. You should be able to insert a whole finger comfortably.
Guinea pigs don't like to wear a wrap and will look miserable once wrapped, often acting like mini-bucking broncos trying to run and kick it off. They will settle in quickly but are not very happy about being covered in bandaging. Once the hair starts to grow back (usually about 5 – 8 days, depending on the severity) and there is about a quarter inch of new growth, the wrap can come off and be replaced by a small sock (cut the toe out of a sock and cut two small holes for the front legs, then slide it over the head). After about a week, the sock can be removed. It can take quite a while before the pig will stop scratching, even when the hair is well on the way to growing back. Continued severe scratching can delay removing the wraps. This is why the sock trick is handy. It allows them to get used to not having a wrap while still protecting the tender skin from itchy episodes.
Prescription steroid treatment to support healing may be a good option to assist your itchy little guy once the wrap has been removed.
Word of warning: Ringworm is contagious to people and other pets, but don't panic. It's not as bad as you might think. In all my years of taking care of guinea pig Ringworm patients, I have only ever gotten it once. The same athlete's foot cream we use for the guinea pigs can be used on us. So, although it may sound like it is not a big deal, please be cautious.
Foot Fungus
Guinea pigs can also suffer from foot fungus. This type of fungus is different from the ringworm fungus and is contained to the foot only. If left untreated, it can lead to more severe health problems like bumblefoot. Make sure to always check your guinea pig's feet as part of a regular health check. Dry feet and cracked skin almost always indicate foot fungus is present. It is one of the most common fungi that can affect guinea pigs and, sadly, it often goes undiagnosed. On a regular Saturday at the rescue, when the public brings in their piggies for a nail trim and health check, we easily identify four animals that suffer from this. It is extremely common, so make sure to check your little guys.
Prevention
Since guinea pigs are so susceptible to fungal infections, I recommend regular preventative anti-fungal shampoo baths at least 2-4 times a year.
We understand that rising costs are a concern for many people; however, if you have any doubts or if your piggy's condition deteriorates, please seek urgent veterinary advice!
It presents as reddish skin with whitish dry skin patches and flakes. It looks similar to dandruff. The other common skin problem guinea pigs can suffer from is caused by a microscopic parasite, the mange mite. This parasite will also cause the guinea pig to itch and cause thinning hair, but only ringworm presents with dry-looking flaky skin.
If ringworm is left untreated, it can rapidly spread. However, it can be eradicated relatively easily if caught in the early stages, unless the infection is allowed to spread. In that case, the treatment is more involved.
Diagnosis
Veterinarians usually want to perform a skin scraping that gets analysed under a microscope, sent to a lab for testing, or tested with black light. The problem with skin scrapings and blacklight testing to detect ringworm is that, sadly, these tests often come back negative. (Over the years, I have taken in countless guinea pigs from the LA City and County shelters with ringworm that were tested via this method and found to be negative.) This can mean some guinea pigs are sent home without proper treatment, and untold suffering may result. So, if a guinea pig shows signs of a skin problem, I always advise treating it for a fungal infection, even if tests at the vet come back negative. To be safe and cover all bases, when we treat ringworm, we also apply a small drop of Ivermectin to the outside of the ear to treat or prevent mange mites. Both ringworm and mange mites are opportunistic and can be present at the same time. In the UK, you can purchase Beaphar anti-parasite liquid that contains Ivermectin.
Treatment
I have developed a treatment protocol that is animal, people, and wallet-friendly and can be done at home. This treatment, if done correctly, will eradicate an active fungal infection. This treatment requires the following over-the-counter (OTC) items:
- Any Athlete's Foot treatment cream such as Tinactin, Miconazole, Daktarin cream, etc. or a fantastic chemical-free option for the creams would be Grapefruit seed oil extract.
- Any pet anti-fungal shampoo. For the US, we recommend the Davis Miconazole brand. For the UK, Maleseb shampoo or Nizarol (a human dandruff shampoo). You can also go to Gorgeous Guineas, who offer a great range of shampoo treatments. Refer to The Guinea Pig Forum for more information on what's available in the UK – search ‘fungal shampoo’ CHARLOTTE - LINK(https://www.theguineapigforum.co.uk/threads/fungal-shampoo.38595/).
- Ask your veterinarian about steroid treatment if the guinea pig is very itchy.
- An antibiotic cream like Neosporin in the US, Fusidin, or Fucibet in the UK works well to disinfect open sores.
Bathing
Medicated baths are the single most important thing to do for an infected guinea pig. Bathe the pig and rub the shampoo all over the body, putting plenty of the shampoo on the affected areas. The shampoo has active ingredients that kill fungal spores.
Be bold. Wash the whole guinea pig, especially the face, and let the shampoo soak in for a few minutes before rinsing. Then, repeat the baths once a week for three weeks.
Cream
At the same time, tackle the infection with the cream by applying it directly to the affected areas. Make sure to rub the cream into the skin and not just put it on the top of the area where it will lay on the hair. The infection is on the skin, so ensure that the cream is applied thoroughly.
Do this twice a day for two weeks. Hair often falls out, revealing bald patches. Don't worry; this means the treatment is working. Most often, the hair will start to grow back by the 5th day. Despite new hair growth, keep applying the cream for two weeks as recommended.
The first bath is the most important part of the treatment and should not be delayed. Use the following bath schedule:
Day 1: bath
Day 4: bath
Day 7: bath
Day 14: bath
Day 21: bath
Severe Cases
In severe cases of ringworm, the body may be covered with a grey/beige crumbly crust that can be up to a half-inch thick. Lesions will also be present from the animal scratching itself.
Seizures can strain the heart, and in some cases, can lead to cardiac arrest. They are exacerbated by handling and scratching. Seizures are heart-breaking and very scary to watch. Prepare a bath for soaking and put plenty of the medicated shampoo in the water. Have the guinea pig soak in this for at least 15 minutes before attempting to remove the crusts. A soft toothbrush works wonders and can be more beneficial than just using your fingers. Try to get as much crust off in that first bath. As long as that crust is still present, the medicated cream will not be able to reach the skin, so this is quite important. You will likely only be able to remove some of the crust in the first bath, so multiple baths are needed.
Scratching
You want to wrap the guinea pig to prevent scratch lesions and scratching-induced seizures.
You will need a soft cotton wrap, the kind that is used to pad the area underneath a cast, and Vet Wrap. Vet wrap is a stretchy tape that will stick to itself (available online in various colors). If open sores are present, you will need to use non-stick pads to cover those areas first and cover the trunk of the body with the cotton wrap, then secure it with the Vet Wrap tape. Make sure it is not applied too tightly. You should be able to insert a whole finger comfortably.
Guinea pigs don't like to wear a wrap and will look miserable once wrapped, often acting like mini-bucking broncos trying to run and kick it off. They will settle in quickly but are not very happy about being covered in bandaging. Once the hair starts to grow back (usually about 5 – 8 days, depending on the severity) and there is about a quarter inch of new growth, the wrap can come off and be replaced by a small sock (cut the toe out of a sock and cut two small holes for the front legs, then slide it over the head). After about a week, the sock can be removed. It can take quite a while before the pig will stop scratching, even when the hair is well on the way to growing back. Continued severe scratching can delay removing the wraps. This is why the sock trick is handy. It allows them to get used to not having a wrap while still protecting the tender skin from itchy episodes.
Prescription steroid treatment to support healing may be a good option to assist your itchy little guy once the wrap has been removed.
Word of warning: Ringworm is contagious to people and other pets, but don't panic. It's not as bad as you might think. In all my years of taking care of guinea pig Ringworm patients, I have only ever gotten it once. The same athlete's foot cream we use for the guinea pigs can be used on us. So, although it may sound like it is not a big deal, please be cautious.
Foot Fungus
Guinea pigs can also suffer from foot fungus. This type of fungus is different from the ringworm fungus and is contained to the foot only. If left untreated, it can lead to more severe health problems like bumblefoot. Make sure to always check your guinea pig's feet as part of a regular health check. Dry feet and cracked skin almost always indicate foot fungus is present. It is one of the most common fungi that can affect guinea pigs and, sadly, it often goes undiagnosed. On a regular Saturday at the rescue, when the public brings in their piggies for a nail trim and health check, we easily identify four animals that suffer from this. It is extremely common, so make sure to check your little guys.
Prevention
Since guinea pigs are so susceptible to fungal infections, I recommend regular preventative anti-fungal shampoo baths at least 2-4 times a year.
We understand that rising costs are a concern for many people; however, if you have any doubts or if your piggy's condition deteriorates, please seek urgent veterinary advice!
